The knowledge of wearing
shoes
The wise
Mr. Agudengba accepted the invitation from the Burmese musician Dorje. During
dinner, Mr. Agudengba was able to continue telling the story of the shoes to
his friends. But this time, he mainly talked about the rules of putting on and
taking off shoes, the etiquette of shoe culture and the hierarchy of wearing
shoes.
Agudenba
said:
Boots are
long leather shoes that reach above the ankle bone. There were not only leather
boots and cloth boots, but also cloth boots, copper boots, wooden boots, and in
the Sui and Tang Dynasties, there were also jade boots and so on. These are the
shoes worn by nomadic people. Soldiers of the Zhou Dynasty wore leather boots
with copper nails.
Shoes
include not only cloth shoes, but also leather shoes, such as those worn by Qin
Shihuang's Terracotta Warriors and Horses. There is a Qin Dynasty terracotta
statue unearthed in Xi'an. Viewed from the back, the bottoms of the shoes worn
by the terracotta warriors kneeling on one leg clearly show traces of dense threads.
This shows that at least in the Qin Dynasty, the craft of soles has been
produced in China. , which enhances the toughness of the soles and extends the
wearing time of the shoes.
The green
silk shoes unearthed from the Mawangdui Tomb of the Western Han Dynasty in
Changsha, Hunan Province. The upper part is woven with brown strands. It is a
plain weave with thicker weft threads. The bottom part of the shoe is woven
with hemp thread. It is plain spun and has a light purple color. The upper part
of the shoe has a hole-shaped pattern. The front end of the shoe has two small
pointed corners, which is unique.
The soles
of the shoes unearthed in the Asta North District of Turpan, Xinjiang are woven
with twine, and the other parts are made of nine colors of red, black, yellow,
and blue silk. According to the shape of the shoes, lace and "wealth and
prosperity are suitable for waiting for the king's wife" are woven.
"Prolong life and prolong life" are inscriptions in Chinese style,
arranged symmetrically from the center to both sides, with each sentence woven
twice. The toe is woven with textured texture.
The Sui
and Tang Dynasties were the heyday of the development of clothing culture. This
is using "shoes" instead of "shoes". The name shoe really
came into existence.
Before the
Qin Dynasty, all officials had to take off their shoes, and even their socks,
when entering the palace. By the Sui and Tang Dynasties, political
enlightenment led to the development of shoe culture. Before the Tang Dynasty,
officials had to take off their shoes and socks when entering the palace. This
tradition once affected Japan and South Korea, and it still affects some
countries around Asia, such as Thailand and Vietnam. After the Tang Dynasty,
officials could wear boots when entering the court. Moreover, women can also
wear boots, and there are fewer requirements for wearing shoes. The shoe styles
of the Song Dynasty were inherited from the Tang Dynasty. Coupled with the
development of the commodity economy in the Song Dynasty, shops specializing in
shoes began to appear in society.
Agudemba
continued:
Speaking
of the story of shoes, we must understand that shoes are still a symbol of
status in this world, and shoes are also divided into grades.
Judging
from the development history of Rome during the same period of the Han Dynasty,
Roman culture and Greek culture were closely related. When the Romans conquered
the Greeks, they inherited the culture of ancient Greece. Therefore, Roman
shoes and decorations were more aristocratic, more luxurious, gorgeous, and had
more styles than those of Greece, but they did not get rid of the style of
sandals. Ancient Romans liked to wear slippers indoors, made of leather or
straw mats. When wearing leather shoes when going out, use large pieces of leather
to shape the heel and instep and tie them with straps, leaving the toes
exposed. Noble shoes are made of high-grade leather and decorated with gold and
silver. The color of shoes is usually brown. In the late Republic and early
Empire, people were more particular about color. Members of Parliament wore
black shoes, and nobles could wear red shoes. Common people generally wear
shoes made of linen and straw. As in ancient times and Greece, it was illegal
for servants and slaves to wear shoes. In China, gaiters are shoes made of
grass or hemp, and are regarded as cheap objects. Therefore, ancient Chinese
people often used the term "taking off gait" or abandoning gait to
describe things being easy or people being treated lightly.
Medieval
Europe first started with the Byzantine Empire because of its geographical
location close to the east. Byzantium was the first to get rid of the tradition
of only wearing sandals in ancient Greece and Rome, with a strong oriental
color. Especially the toe caps are influenced by the Tang Dynasty's brocade
shoes. The upper is not high, has a shallow mouth, and also has a strong
oriental color. The jewelry adorning the upper is a typical Byzantine feature.
It looks slim, elegant and luxurious. The general shoes of nomads and northern
Europe are characterized by high-top leather boots, which are very different
from the characteristics of the East.
The
Byzantine shoemaking industry developed rapidly and later spread throughout
Europe, which also affected the characteristics of European shoe styles. The
Holy See had absolute supreme power in medieval Europe, and its life was also
very superior. Of course, the shoes worn by the bishops must be made of silk
fabrics, which will make them look more luxurious.
Compared
with the vast number of poor civilians in the Middle Ages who could not afford
to wear shoes, the shoes of Roman priests were really luxurious. We can see
from the paintings of "The Gospel of Otto III" that represent the
typical medieval painting style that civilians at that time did not wear shoes,
even during labor.
Therefore,
shoes are only popular among the middle and upper class people. Knights at that
time wore iron boots with European characteristics. At that time, although the
Middle Ages lagged behind in terms of clothing, they were leading in
iron-making and metallurgy, especially in making armor.
Europeans
divided shoes into grades, while China's Ming and Qing dynasties had stricter
restrictions on wearing shoes. Civil and military officials and soldiers can
wear boots, but civilians, actors, servants, etc. cannot wear boots. The shoes
worn by officials must be dyed black, commonly known as "soap shoes".
The soles are made of wood to a certain thickness and coated with a layer of
white powder, so they are also called "foundation soap boots". We can
often see it in Peking Opera.
Among
women's shoes, the pointed upturned crested shoes are the most popular, with
exquisite embroidery on the edges. Weared by concubines and aristocratic women
in the imperial palace. Especially during the Qing Dynasty, flag shoes
appeared: a type of embroidered shoes unique to the Manchu people. They were
named flowerpot-soled shoes because their soles resembled flowerpots. The soles
are made of wood and wrapped in white cloth. They are usually 7cm in length and
can reach up to 13cm in height. The uppers are decorated with embroidery of
flowers, plants and birds. Some shoes also have embroidered patterns on the
soles, and there are tassels made of needlework on the toes reaching to the
ground. They were particularly popular in the Qing Dynasty, and even the
Empress Dowager Cixi often wore these shoes. Shoes like this often appear in
court dramas of the Qing Dynasty.
By the
Renaissance in the fifteenth century, European capital began to develop,
productivity increased rapidly, and the shoe industry developed very rapidly.
At this time, in comparison, China's shoe culture in the Ming and Qing
Dynasties began to look backward. And because there were many European
countries at that time and their living customs were also different, the styles
of shoes were also different, with different styles and a hundred flowers
blooming.
Agudenba
smiled and said:
You must
know about high heels, but do you know who invented high heels and how they
became popular?
Agudemba
tells the story of high heels:
King Louis
XIV of the Bourbon Dynasty, the "Sun King", was one of the greatest
monarchs in French history and a model of European autocratic monarchy. He
reigned for 72 years, making him the longest reigning monarch in world history.
He expanded France's territory and France became the most powerful country and
cultural center in Europe at that time. However, King Louis XIV was not tall
and felt that his stature was not proportional to his prestige. In order to
make up for his lack of stature, he tampered with his feet and raised the heels
of his shoes.
As the
king of a country, Louis XIV was also a leader in fashion trends. His
preference for high heels also influenced high-ranking officials and even
became popular in other European countries. Later, high heels gradually lost
popularity among men, but women in the palace liked them very much.
In the
18th century, women in the French royal palace wore high heels. Before that,
women's shoes basically followed the style of men's shoes, and then different
styles of women's high heels gradually developed. Just from the high heels, we
can see that modern European shoe culture has deeply influenced the development
of the shoe industry and its aesthetic views in today's society. At the same
time, we also see that the most distinctive feature of European shoe
development is the emergence of high heels.
With the
emergence, development and prosperity of shoe culture, affected by many natural
regional factors, social and cultural factors, and even personal aesthetic
factors, different ethnic groups have played an important role in improving the
aesthetic and cultural value of shoes. In fact, the most important thing is
that shoes are no longer restricted by class. As long as you have a certain
financial strength, you can also wear the shoes worn by the president and first
lady. The key is whether you have money in your pocket. Today is a world where
money rules everything.
Agudenba
smiled and said:
With the
development of high technology, future shoes may be equipped with chips that
can sterilize, deodorize, massage the soles of the feet, and can also test
changes in body temperature, blood pressure, blood sugar and other data during
foot movement. My only hope is that I don’t wear new shoes and walk the same
old path.
All the
friends who were listening laughed. During dinner, everyone drank milk tea
again and sang a festive "Tea Song":
Let me offer you a cup of tea
The tea in this cup is sweet and fragrant
We drink delicious tea
Our friendship is in tea
We can't finish talking
Our exchanges will never be forgotten
Let me offer you a cup of tea
The tea in this cup is sweet and fragrant
The day we meet again
We sing a new song together
we will always walk together
Long live friendship in the ends of the
world
Taking the legendary wise Agu Demba as the protagonist, I started to create the Chinese-English version of "Snow Land Fable" using the traditional fable creation method that combines poetry and prose. Writing fableskes me feel like a child again. Studying snowy culture is my prescription to prevent Alzheimer’s di masease.
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