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In my childhood memories, the tiger's stove in Shanghai was big and small. The small Tiger Stove is only a shop, dedicated to boiling water, mostly for husband and wife shops. There are also "one-opening" rooms, but the tiger stoves that are "deep" or deeper, or two-opening, have larger functions and uses. In addition to supplying boiling water, this tiger stove can also be used as a tea house, so it is also called "tea house shop" by Shanghainese.
The store can hold several and dozens of eight immortal tables, and the seats are long wooden benches. Three hundred and sixty-five days a year, every morning, before dawn, the boiling water in the tiger's stove just rolled, and there were tea guests drinking morning tea intermittently. Most of them were "old guests" and knew each other.
These people also pose as "Dragon Gate Array" while drinking tea. From astronomy to geography, national events, trivial matters, weird talks, gossips, etc., here, everything is all-inclusive.
When breakfast is over, the tea guest can call the guys who make "tea" in the shop, buy raw fried buns in Zhangjiadian, buy pancake fritters in Lijiadian, and rice cakes... Then, the tea will be served early, leisurely, leisurely, and breakfast will be solved.
Sometimes, when there are many tea customers, the store will put the table on the street to form an "open-air tea house".
This type of "tea house shop" has tea guests constantly from morning till night. Many "Tea", hand-held large copper teapots, shuttle between tea customers, constantly brewing tea for tea customers, and also buy cigarettes, snacks for tea customers, to provide this service, often have tips to get. Some shops also have a small stage of "storytelling". Every afternoon, the pipa and the three strings of the ding dong dong on the small stage sounded, and they were lifted up and down. The soft and gentle Wu Nong soft words can win a lot of applause from tea guests. Many famous players in the ball-playing world made their debut from such tiger-stove-like teahouses.
This is the early morning in Shanghai, a special style line derived from the tiger stove!
2
In the summer afternoon, a small-scale tiger stove will put a wooden signboard at the door with the words "Clear Water Basin Soup." People in Shanghai know that this tiger stove can take a bath.
Where there is a "clear water basin soup" store, there is a long table at the door, a wash basin on the table, a clean towel in the basin, a large water tank beside the table, and hot water in the tank. After taking a shower, you can wash your face and wash your hair here. This is called "up and down".
When walking into the store, there is a curtain covering the inside of the curtain, and the "long bath" for bathing is lined up, the number of which is proportional to the size of the tiger stove. Another large water tank is placed in the tank, which contains cold water for the purpose of adjusting the temperature of the water when the guests take a bath.
If the guests want to take a bath, say hello, the buddy will "carry" a large barrel of high-temperature hot water and pour it into the bath tub you specified. The reason why water is high temperature is because some bathers have to "burn their feet". Afterwards, you can mix in the corresponding cold water according to your requirements for water temperature and take a comfortable bath. It is cheaper to take a bath in "Clear Water Basin Soup" than in a bathhouse. It is worth mentioning that: "Clear Water Basin Soup" serves all men.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, there were only a few tiger stoves on the beach, and the business was mediocre. At that time, most of the shops used their own stoves to boil water for their friends to make tea. Because if you don’t have a stove at home, you need to carry a teapot to the tiger stove to flush the water. At that time, there was no water bottle to keep the boiling water warm. After a pot of tea was finished, you must run to the tiger stove again if you want to drink. Far away from the tiger stove, it is very different.
In the early 1920s, German merchants and foreign firms transformed the vacuum flask invented by the English chemist Dewar into a thermos. In order to reduce trouble, some shops and bachelors no longer produced their own stoves, but used thermos to the tiger stove. Soak in water.
The business of Tiger Stove has gradually flourished. In addition, during this period, warlords fought and the Japanese invaded China. Some Jiangsu and Zhejiang villagers fled to Shanghai. In just a few years, hundreds of thousands of people crowded into Shanghai. Their living conditions were extremely poor, and all rely on tiger stoves for tea. solve.
Tiger stoves are generally located on the side of the road. They occupy a small area and can open a store where a stove can be built. The tables and stools are on the street.
Tiger stoves generally use cheap clay teapots, and the tea is also the lowest grade of coarse tea, with large leaves and dark tea color. Such low-end teahouses usually open for business in the early morning for morning tea, close at 9 or 10 o'clock in the evening, and close for business at noon. Most of the tea visitors who came to this type of teahouse were the low-level figures and ordinary people of the society at that time, and there were also a large number of rogues and rogues.
Tiger Stove is fashionable to "eat tea", but eating tea here is not like big teahouses and teahouses in other places. It is for business conflicts or gang disputes. Most of them are trivial things, such as borrowing. Not paying the money, family disputes, etc.
Therefore, Shanghai Tiger Stove is actually a low-end small tea house, which is all over the market.
3
In the early Qing Dynasty, Shanghai had become a medium-sized city with a population of 240,000, and the tea shop business began to flourish. Around the end of Xianfeng and the beginning of Tongzhi, the first large tea house in Shanghai, Yidong Tiancha, appeared on the bustling Nanjing Road. A little later than that is the Lishui Terrace Tea House, on the third floor of the High Pavilion, with pin-windows on all sides and an extraordinary style.
In modern times, Shanghai, known as the "Shiliyangchang", has become an international metropolis, attracting people from all over the world. The civic culture is increasingly developed, and the teahouses that have emerged along with the prosperity of the city’s economy and the prosperity of the civic culture. Become an important place for people to relax, entertain and communicate.
According to historical records, there were about 64 tea houses in Shanghai during the first year of Xuantong in the late Qing Dynasty (1900 AD). In the eighth year of the Republic of China (1919 AD), it increased to 164 in just ten years. By 1949, only Nancheng Laochengxiang There are 169 various tea houses.
In addition, there are still many very simple teahouses called "tiger stoves", which are used by ordinary working people to sit back and quench their thirst, and are distributed in various places in the urban area.
At that time, the more famous teahouse in Shanghai had the "Pinquan Tower" of Jing'an Temple. "Lake Heart Pavilion" in the City God Temple, "Tong Yuchun" on Nanjing Road and "Five Clouds Rises" and so on.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Guangdong teahouses emerged in Shanghai. The earliest ones were the "Tonglaju" and "Yizhenju" opened at the intersection of Guangdong Road and Henan Road. Later, Nanjing Road gradually developed rapidly. The Guangdong Teahouse was very popular for a short while. From Nanjing Road to Tibet Road alone, there were nearly ten "Daidong", "Big Three Yuan", "East Asia", and "Xinya". , Gathered in one place, full of high-end friends every day, among which "Yi Anju" and "Taotaoju" are the most famous. My grandfather is a Cantonese and likes to drink Cantonese tea. He often takes me to the "Big Three" tea. In the impression, he picked this one to drink tea, and I don't know why.
Guangdong Tea House is known for its exquisite tea leaves and beautiful tea sets, and sells exquisite Cantonese dim sum. It has three characteristics: elegant venue, enthusiastic service and fair charges. What is particularly impressive is that the waiters were meticulous and polite. A box-style Cantonese dim sum, loaded on a disk, the waiter pushes it to the table with a car, such as horseshoe cake, siu bao, egg tower, roasted wheat, etc., listen to the choice, neither go to the counter to buy in advance, nor do you need to pay on the spot. Always "eat first and pay later". When the tea guest left, as soon as he greeted, the waiter quickly came to the table and inspected the mark on the edge of the disk to tell you immediately how much to pay. What's quite interesting is that the girl in white is pushing the glass fruit cart, coming and going, supplying seasonal fresh fruit for the tea guests, and also peeling for it. However, this has to pay cash.
The Guangdong Tea House also serves "Dinner". The so-called "supper" is a bowl of "smooth meat noodles" which cost two cents. Su Manshu, a Nanshe poet monk who lived in Shanghai at that time, often went to "Tongfangju" to taste tea and cakes, and was very happy.
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Shanghai teahouse business is booming, and even foreigners have opened teahouses in Shanghai. The earliest was the "Toyo Teahouse" opened by the Japanese in the early years of Guangxu. At first, it mainly sold Japanese tea. It was gradually sent into pornographic ingredients, and finally became a disguised brothel.
The title of the Shanghai Tea House is very elegant: such as Tianjiang Pavilion on Lijiang Road; Helinchun on Yunnan Road; Songfeng Pavilion on Guangdong Road; Qunfangju on Sichuan North Road; Jiangzhi Yizhichun on Dongjiadu; Qinglian Pavilion on Fuzhou Road; South There are Simeixuan, Chunfeng Deyi Building and Huxin Pavilion in Yuyuan City.
Due to its special status, the tea house in Shanghai has become a microcosm of the "Shiliyangchang", from which you can get a glimpse of the social conditions of old Shanghai under the influence of the last century. It is not as distinct as the Beijing Tea House: Chess Tea House, Book Tea House, Qing Tea House, and Wild Tea House have their own different forms of entertainment, but they are both distinct and mixed with fish and dragons, showing their strange side.
Due to different conditions, Shanghai teahouses can be roughly divided into two categories: one is middle-to-high-end teahouses. The tea shoppers in this type of teahouse basically come from middle and upper class society, most of them are dignitaries, social celebrities, broad and old merchants, gangsters and gangsters who have established status in society. Most of these tea houses are located in the prosperous market or in a quiet place. The buildings are tall. Whether they are external or internal decoration, they are more particular. The tea room is elegant and has clear windows, and is equipped with interior rooms and elegant seats. The capital of tea is several times higher than that of general teahouses, and even several dozen times. The other category is low-end teahouses, including the Tiger Stove Teahouse.
5
Old teahouses in Shanghai are called teahouses, so they attract customers with tea. However, except for some old people who come to the teahouse to taste tea, most of them take the teahouse as the venue for various activities. The functions of local tea houses are different.
Various teahouses in old Shanghai were also news distribution centers, and the news was particularly abundant. Therefore, reporters from the newspaper office, patrols from the patrol house, and plain-clothes detectives often patronized the teahouse. Some reporters, especially those in the Evening Newspaper and Tabloid Newspaper, after hearing the anecdote in the teahouse, often draft articles in the teahouse on the spot and send them directly to the night office editor of the newspaper office. The patrol and detectives of the patrol room not only often get clues from the teahouse to solve the case, but some simply handle the case in the teahouse, turning the teahouse into a public office. Therefore, the old Shanghai has a package to inquire about the tea party. However, such tea drinkers do not pay for tea, and the teahouse owners rely on their power to maintain the market.
The teahouse in Shanghai is also one of the "labor markets". In some low-end teahouses, there are often hand-crafted craftsmen such as carpenters, bricklayers, and craftsmen waiting to be hired. They and the brokers, merchants, and tea-handlers in hand-held bird cages sit in corners to share their seats with each other, and they will share their peace of mind and will not come to them!
Another important function of Shanghai Tea House is the "trading market". This group of people is the most important group of tea guests in the most prosperous tea house. Every morning, big businessmen from all walks of life come to meet and socialize in high-end teahouses, negotiate business, inquire about information, and connect feelings. For example, the famous industrialist Liu Hongsheng often went to the Qinglian Pavilion teahouse to trade coal with people.
Among these merchants, there is a broker called "Day Ant", who acts as an intermediary for renting or buying and selling houses. Since "Japanese Ants" are often active in tea houses, all houses in old Shanghai were rented or sold. The patron who buys a house often goes to the teahouse, and when he is done, he is in the teahouse. At that time, people in Shanghai called this the "roof market."
The Spring Breeze House once changed its business direction and tried to attract a group of merchants to provide convenience for them to talk about entertainment and market transactions. Therefore, every morning, the cloth industry, bean industry, money industry, sugar industry and other merchants wearing melon leather hats are constantly in and out. After a long time, businessmen in various industries have agreed on their own, naturally forming a fixed time for their daily activities in the teahouse. They are staggered according to different industries and do not interfere with each other. This is what people call the "tea party". Every afternoon, nearly 200 businessmen from the chemical raw materials industry attended the tea party at Chunfeng Deyi Building, including nearly 160 vendors. Some teahouses like the City God Temple are a meeting point for businessmen who do pigeon business; and like Xinfu Teahouse on Guangqi South Road, a meeting place for businessmen who work as mahogany.
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In the Shanghai Tea House, a pot of tea used to be fifteen liters, and two people can make a pot together. Every Lunar New Year period, the museum campaign is the main player, adding olives to the bowl, called "Yuanbao tea", and the tea resources have to be doubled. Some tea houses have kang couches, which can be used to sit on the couch and drink tea. It is called "tacha", and the tea is also expensive.
At that time, there was a bookstore in Shanghai, where performances were evaluated and often attached to tea houses. Most of these tea houses are small and medium-sized, and large tea houses do not have to rely on judging to attract tea customers. Most teahouses sell tea and refreshments in the morning, close at noon and close for business, and set up bookstores in the afternoon and evening. All tea houses with bookstores are generally spacious and have buildings. The tea room is arranged in several rows to facilitate the placement of teapots and teacups. Murumi builds a small altar, which is used by playing judging artists. Hang the pipa on the wall with three strings on the left. A black card was hung in front of the teahouse, and the artist's name and the title of the book were written in white powder. Every four or five days at the end of the lunar calendar, there is an act of speaking and writing, stipulating that each show is four grades of tea. The owner of the teahouse is inviting famous artists who say that they are good at singing and singing, that is, the so-called "sound file" on stage. There are big books that talk about heroes, little books that sing lingering children, or string chords, or awake trees, all doing their best. In order to accommodate a large number of listeners, the owner of the teahouse often removes all the stools, and the tea is no longer prepared. The purpose of the tea guest is not to drink tea, mainly to listen to books. During this period of time, tea customers are particularly waiting, and the teahouse's income is also large, but these incomes are all allocated to the Tangs for the New Year.
The bookstore-style teahouses are more famous for the Jingchun Building on Qingjiucang Street, the Jade Liquid Tea House on the old school field road, the first teahouse on Dajing Road, and the nearly ten teahouses in Chenghuang Temple, such as Chunfeng Deyi Building, Shuanglehuan, Lefu Lang, Simeixuan and Liyuan are all famous bookstore-style tea houses.
Teahouses are very polite to old tea drinkers who are addicted to listening to books and are present every day. Some teahouses even set up special seats at the entrance of the book stand for these people to enjoy. And these tea guests don’t have a stand when they are seated. If the tea is not open, it is indicated by gestures: the index finger is straight green tea, the index finger is curved black tea, the five fingers are extended slightly curved is chrysanthemum tea, the hand is fisted, the tea house is a man, Tomorrow at a glance.
In these tea houses, some peddlers walked among the tea shoppers, selling spiced beans, golden cauliflower, licorice plum, cigarettes, candy and snacks, snacks, etc. The prices were low and were very popular among visitors. It is said that all the artists who come to Shanghai for storytelling should always go to the teahouse of the Chenghuang Temple to talk about the appearance of a few books to expand their influence.
Compared with everywhere, tea houses in Shanghai highlight their economic functions, which is inseparable from the development of Shanghai’s commodity economy. Shanghai Tea House is elegant and full of fun. It can be said to be one of the outstanding representatives of Jiangnan Tea House culture.
Today, the more tea houses are opened in Shanghai, the more luxurious they are, but they can't find the feeling of the past, especially the memory of Tiger Stove.
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