Chapter
6 New Year’s Eve
New Year's Eve dinner
The last day of
"Sui" is called "Sui Chu", and that night is called
"New Year's Eve". It is connected with the beginning and end of the
New Year, which is called "the end of the year and the end of the
year". It is the eve of the new year and an important time junction for
getting rid of the old and welcoming the new. "New Year's Eve" means
New Year's Eve, also known as New Year's Eve, New Year's Eve, New Year's Eve,
etc. It is the last night at the end of the year. During this period, the theme
of the activity is to remove the old and bring in the new. China has had
customs such as sticking New Year's red cards, worshiping ancestors, having
reunion dinners, and watching the year old since ancient times. New Year's Eve
is a day to see off the old, bring in the new, reunite the family, and worship
ancestors.
The Chinese
people pay special attention to the day of the New Year, to get rid of the old,
introduce the new, and welcome the new year. Every household is busy cleaning
their courtyards, putting up lanterns and colorful decorations, welcoming their
ancestors home for the New Year, and offering them rice cakes, three animal
meals, three teas and five wines. New Year's Eve has special significance in
the hearts of Chinese people. This is the most important day at the end of the
year. No matter how far away the wanderers are, they rush home to reunite with
their families, bid farewell to the old year amidst the sound of firecrackers,
and welcome the new year with fireworks in the sky.
stay up late
Shou Sui, also
known as Zhao Xuhuo, Shou Suihuo, Zhao Sui, etc., has a long history and is one
of the annual customs among Chinese people.
On New Year's
Eve, people watch the New Year's Eve, and the folk activities mainly include
lighting the New Year's Fire and keeping the New Year's Fire. Every room should
be brightly lit all night long to reunite the whole family and welcome the new
year; on New Year's Eve, lights and candles should be kept burning all night
long, which is called "illuminating waste". It is said that after
lighting up the new year in this way, the family's wealth will be enriched in
the coming year.
In ancient
China, there were different customs in the north and south. In some places, the
main custom of staying up late on New Year's Eve was to stay up all night. In
some places, on New Year's Eve, the whole family gets together, has New Year's
Eve dinner, lights candles or oil lamps, sits around the fire, chats, and keeps
vigil all night, which symbolizes driving away all evil plagues and looking
forward to the new year. Good luck and good luck.
Stay up late
On the eve of the New Year's Eve, Chinese
folk custom has the habit of staying up late and staying up all year long. In
ancient times, in addition to worshiping gods, keeping up the New Year's Eve
also meant to drive away evil spirits. Staying up late is also called staying up
late.
According to
legend, in the ancient times, there was a ferocious monster. People called this
monster "Nian". This monster usually doesn't come out, but every New
Year's Eve it will crawl out of the sea, harming people and animals, destroying
farmland, and causing disasters to the people who have worked hard all year.
The three corpse
gods who specialize in doing bad things, in order to do evil to the people,
lobby the Nian beast together and encourage it to harm the people on New Year's
Eve.
When the Kitchen
God heard about this, he informed every household not to go out on New Year's
Eve, but to stay at home to watch the New Year's Eve. The common people were
afraid of the ferocity of the Nian beast, so they could only sit at home until
dawn and did not dare to sleep. Some simply drank and played cards, and didn't
go out until dawn to wish each other a happy New Year. Fortunately, I was not
eaten by the Nian beast.
But once a
strange thing happened in a remote village. The people there thought that their
village was far away and the Nian beast would not come to do evil, so they
relaxed their vigilance. As a result, the Nian beast came and ate almost
everyone in the village. Only a few children survived.
As soon as the
Kitchen Lord found out, it turned out that the children were setting off
firecrackers when Nian Beast came. Nian Beast was frightened and ran away when
he heard the sound of firecrackers and saw the light of fire. The Kitchen God
told the people that the Nian beast had three fears: fire, red, and noise.
Under the
arrangement of the Kitchen God, during the Chinese New Year, ordinary people
wear red robes, hang red lanterns, paste red couplets, and beat gongs and drums
and set off firecrackers to drive away the New Year beast.
When the Kitchen King's grandmother was
divorced by Zhang Lang, she lived in the mountains and forests and became good
friends with the Land Master. With the help of the Land Master, she once
rescued an injured tiger. Later she learned that the tiger was called Tiger.
After the tiger
heard about the Nian beast disturbing the villagers, he took the initiative to
go down the mountain to help. After the tiger defeated the Nian beast, he asked
his tiger dolls to come out to help the common people's children every time they
observe the New Year. From then on, during the Chinese New Year, children in
every household wore tiger-head hats and tiger-head shoes. The first month was
called the first month of the year, called Tiger Moon.
The God of Earth
knew that Nian Beast was the pet of Ziweixing, the God of Heaven, so he went to
the Jade Emperor to report it. The Jade Emperor asked Ziweixing to take Nian
Beast into custody. The Nian beast was later taken back by Ziweixing and locked
on a stone pillar in heaven, never allowing it to harm the people again.
However, the
customs of staying up late and staying up until the end of the year are still
passed down to this day, and people still have to be vigilant to prevent the
Nian beast from appearing again.
New Year's Eve dinner
New Year's Eve
dinner is one of the New Year's Eve customs, also known as New Year's dinner,
reunion dinner, reunion dinner, etc. It especially refers to the family dinner
at the end of the year and New Year's Eve.
The New Year's
Eve dinner originates from the ancient year-end sacrificial ceremony, where
people gather together for a meal after paying homage to gods and ancestors.
The New Year's
Eve dinner is the highlight of the year. It is not only colorful, but also very
special. Before having the family reunion dinner, worship the gods and
ancestors first, and then start the meal after the worship ceremony is
completed. There are usually chickens (meaning good luck), fish (meaning
abundance every year), oysters and black beans (meaning good market), nostoc (meaning
fortune), yuba (meaning abundance), lotus root (meaning wisdom), and lettuce
(meaning bringing wealth). ), raw garlic (the apartment will calculate), etc.
for good luck.
The Chinese New
Year's Eve dinner is a family reunion dinner. It is the most sumptuous and
important dinner at the end of the year.
The annual
"Reunion Dinner" is extremely important to the Chinese people. The
reunion of family members can give people spiritual comfort and satisfaction.
The whole family respects and loves each other and talks about family affairs.
Sitting around the dinner table is a happy experience. time.
Eating reunion
dinner is a Spring Festival custom. During the Chinese Spring Festival,
"eating" often becomes the main activity for most people during the
festival. The whole family sits around the steaming table, and there is such a
festive and lively atmosphere. This can be regarded as the biggest feature of
the Chinese New Year. . The saying "Food is the first priority for the
people" seems to be even more reasonable during the traditional festival
of Spring Festival. But you should also eat with some knowledge when eating the
reunion dinner.
The reunion
dinner is the most important feast for Chinese people to wish for family
reunion and peace in the coming year. Also called "New Year's Eve
Dinner" and "Reunion Dinner".
The first thing
Chinese people say when they meet each other is: Have you "eated"?
When the solar
term comes, you have to "eat", "eat" during the Dragon Boat
Festival, "eat" during the Mid-Autumn Festival, "eat"
during the Double Ninth Festival, "eat" during the Spring Festival
every year, "eat" at parties, "eat" at weddings, and
"eat" at birthdays "Eat", "eat" when your child
gets into college, "eat" when you find a good job... In short, when
encountering something festive, the way most people choose to celebrate is
definitely "eating".
Restaurants are
always the first to get a taste of the excitement of the Spring Festival. Some
hotel rooms are fully booked half a month before the festival. You can imagine
how popular the New Year's Eve dinner will be.
The Spring
Festival is the oldest and most solemn traditional festival in China. It is
also a common festival for the Han people and most ethnic minorities. The Han
people celebrate the Spring Festival for a long time, usually starting from the
eighth day of the twelfth lunar month and ending with the Lantern Festival on
the fifteenth day of the first lunar month.
From the
Northern and Southern Dynasties to the Song Dynasty, there was a custom of
drinking "Tusu wine", "cypress leaf wine" and "peach
soup" on New Year's Day in the Yangtze River Basin. Drinking Tusu wine is
said to ward off the plague. Cypress leaf wine is made from cypress leaves
soaked in wine. Cypress is an evergreen tree. The cypress leaves wither and
become durable. Drinking cypress leaf wine means its longevity.
New Year's meals
must be in auspicious terms. People in Jiangnan make tea during the New Year to
honor guests, and put two olives on the tea tray or on the lid of the bowl,
which is called "Wubao tea". During the New Year meal, there must be
stir-fried green vegetables, which is said to be "loving and warm";
bean sprouts must be eaten, because the shape of soybean sprouts resembles
"ruyi".
When having a
reunion dinner on New Year’s Eve, every family’s dinner table must have a dish
of fish. The word “yu” for fish is the same as “fish”, so there is “fish” every
year—there is “yu” every year, which is auspicious and festive. There are many
fish dishes from all over the north and south of our country, such as
"Poached Crucian Carp" in Jiangsu cuisine, "Fried Anchovy
Nuggets" in Ussuri cuisine, "Flamed Crucian Carp" in Sichuan
cuisine, "Fragrant Bass Balls" in Cantonese cuisine, Hunan cuisine
The "Qiyang pen fish" in Beijing cuisine, the "vinegar pepper
fish" in Beijing cuisine, the "Korean whitebait" in Tianjin
cuisine, the "white pine salmon" in Northeastern cuisine, etc. are
all famous fish dishes. .
The Spring
Festival is the largest and longest "eating and drinking season" in
China. Food constitutes a prosperous scene during the festival. The reason why
chewing the warm reunion dinner is a happy thing lies in the true emotions, and
not It’s not about the form of “eating”. As the old saying goes: “Too much is
too little”. As long as you come to China, you are guaranteed to "eat
what's in the bowl and look at what's in the pot."
Chinese food
culture emphasizes "color, aroma, taste, shape, utensils and
etiquette", especially the dazzling cooking, aesthetic pleasure in taste,
and red tape in etiquette.
The Chinese
nation's custom of "celebrating the New Year" has a history of more
than 3,000 years, and the custom of staying up late and having a "reunion
dinner" on New Year's Eve is one of the most iconic activities during the
New Year. In this sense, "Reunion Dinner" has a long history of
development, profound cultural accumulation and a broad audience of future
generations of Chinese people.
Family is the
cornerstone of society. "Reunion Dinner" is a folk cultural activity
held as a family unit. The annual "Reunion Dinner" fully demonstrates
the mutual respect, love and family happiness of family members. This mutual
respect and love strengthens the relationship between the family. Even more
closely, this kind of family happiness fully expresses the traditional virtue
of respecting the elderly and loving the young. The reunion of the family often
brings infinite spiritual comfort and satisfaction to the head of the family.
The elderly see their children and grandchildren in the house, and the whole
family talks about family affairs. The past care and efforts in raising the
children have finally not been in vain. What happiness and joy it is. pride. The
younger generation can also take this opportunity to express their gratitude to
their parents for their upbringing.
Although the
"Reunion Dinner" is a dietary activity during the Chinese New Year,
it actually goes beyond the scope of "eating" in the general sense
and has become a cultural entertainment and spiritual aesthetic activity. To be
precise, the "Reunion Dinner" is a way for people to express the
cultural psychology of the Chinese nation through dietary activities during the
Chinese New Year. Therefore, we say that the "Reunion Dinner" is
first and foremost a carrier of New Year culture, which carries the
civilizational accumulation and cultural implications of the Chinese nation's
"New Year culture" for thousands of years. In this sense, it is almost
impossible for today's hotels and restaurants to show the infinite charm of
"Reunion Dinner" by just relying on a few delicacies or certain
cooking techniques. It’s no wonder that people eat “reunion dinners” in hotels
and restaurants instead of waiting until the moment of getting rid of the old
and welcoming the new.
It doesn't
matter whether the "Reunion Dinner" is delicacies from the mountains
and seas, nor does it matter whether you have superb cooking skills. The key to
the problem is whether the "Reunion Dinner" carries more "fun of
the year". Since the "Reunion Dinner" is a cultural carrier and
cooking skills are a manifestation of the festival's food culture, our hotels
and restaurants design the "Reunion Dinner" just as a seasonal
banquet and only focus on the quality of its dishes. The grade, type of dishes,
price positioning and restaurant service have just ignored the core content of
the "Reunion Dinner", that is, the taste of folk culture.
There is no
doubt that a "reunion dinner" with only cultural content is
meaningless. Because the various foods in the "Reunion Dinner" are
the carriers of folk culture, the material carrier is the foundation of the
"Reunion Dinner". Therefore, the design and matching of food dishes
for a "reunion dinner" table are very important and should not be too
casual. In addition to the beautiful meaning of the food itself, the use of
various foods in the "Reunion Dinner" also needs to consider the type
of food, the quality, grade, luxury, cooking skills, styling effects, color
aesthetics, etc. of the food. In the pursuit of healthy diet, Today,
nutritional coordination cannot be ignored.
The traditional
"Reunion Dinner" can ignore the nutritional combination, or ignore
the scientific combination. The food on the table is mainly composed of
conventional auspicious foods. As mentioned earlier, the Southern "Reunion
Dinner" must include hot pot, fish, glutinous rice balls, and radishes.
Waiting for food. In northern China, the indispensable “Reunion Dinner” includes
rice cakes, dumplings, reunion cakes, chicken, fish, pumpkin vegetables, New
Year vegetables, etc. From this point of view, whether the traditional
"Reunion Dinner" is in the south or the north, the main consideration
in the use of food is their beautiful meaning. When today's hotels and
restaurants design various "Reunion Dinners", in addition to taking
care of In addition to the reasonable use of some foods that symbolize
auspiciousness, the latest dietary science achievements and scientific and technological
elements should also be combined.
The reunion
dinner that the whole family eats on Lunar New Year's Eve is also called New
Year's dinner or New Year's Eve dinner.
The New Year's
Eve dinner is also called "family reunion" on New Year's Eve. After
this meal, we say goodbye to the old year and welcome the new one, so it is
also called "the New Year's Eve".
In ancient
times, people believed that New Year’s Eve dinner also had the functions of
warding off epidemics, exorcising evil spirits, and keeping fit. Therefore, the
characteristic of the New Year's Eve dinner is a banquet for family reunion.
Both men, women and children must participate. For this reunion, family members
or children who are out must return home before New Year's Eve; Leave an empty
seat and place a pair of chopsticks for those who have not returned to express
family reunion.
The New Year's
Eve dinner was usually the most sumptuous meal of the year among farmers in
Guandong in the old days, and it had to be cooked on New Year's Eve. There must
be fish among the food and wine on the table, which means there will be surplus
money and food in the new year, and everything will be abundant; there must
also be a bowl of braised meatballs, which means family reunion.
With the
progress of the times, the New Year's Eve dinner has shown new development
trends: first, the eating procedures are gradually simplified, people no longer
only focus on "eating", but pay more attention to cultural and other
spiritual enjoyment in the family atmosphere of reunion; second, New Year’s Eve
dinner will be more diversified, Chinese food is no longer the only choice,
Western food and other exotic foods will gradually be recognized by the Chinese
people; third, New Year’s Eve dinner will be moved from restaurants to families,
and for some qualified high-income families, New Year’s Eve dinner will be
Instead of arranging it in restaurants, relatives and friends are invited to
have a "big meal" at home.
However, the
taboos surrounding the traditional New Year’s Eve dinner seem to still exist,
such as:
Faced with a
plate of fish at the New Year's Eve dinner, everyone will agree not to move
their chopsticks, hoping for the good fortune of having more fish every year.
A plate of
stir-fried pork with winter bamboo shoots symbolizes "higher and
higher", and everyone should eat a little if they like it or not. After
the "Japanese vegetables" stir-fried with day lily, dried tofu,
winter bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, shredded pork, etc. are served,
everyone also has to eat a little symbolically, especially brothers, sisters,
mother-in-law, daughter-in-law, and sisters-in-law, as if they have eaten. This
"harmony dish" will make everything harmonious for everyone in the
coming year.
The New Year's
Eve dinner lasts for two or three hours. During this time, the younger
generation toasts to the older generation, and the older generation also toasts
to the younger generation. By the way, he says some targeted words of
encouragement and gives the younger generation a red envelope as a lucky gift
for the new year. The red envelope is not much, so it's appreciated. That's it.
The New Year's Eve dinner is generally cooked in large quantities, and wealthy
families do not cook red pots from the first to the third day of the Lunar New
Year. After the New Year's Eve dinner, in the past there would be no Spring
Festival gala without TV. Everyone sat quietly on the fire barrel, peeling
peanuts and melon seeds that were rarely seen in ordinary times, eating frozen
rice candies, talking and laughing to celebrate the New Year. At around 10
o'clock in the evening, it was time to receive the Kitchen God. The adults came
to the kitchen stove with the slogan "God says good things, and the lower
world ensures peace." They symbolically set off a firecracker to receive
the Kitchen God.
我重新修订了14年前编撰的《中国春节文化漫谈》,通过网络翻译,改为汉英版,目的是方便海外网友了解中国春节文化。(作者:沈阳)
回复删除I have revised the "Chinese Spring Festival Culture Talk" compiled 14 years ago, with the purpose of making it easier for overseas netizens to understand Chinese Spring Festival culture. (Author: Shenyang)