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2023年12月2日星期六

Living Goddess Kumari

 


Living Goddess Kumari

 

Old Lavani asked Agudenba:

Did you know there are living goddesses in Nepal?”

"Living Goddess? Are you talking about living gods who are successful in cultivating Taoism? I only heard that there are living Buddhas in Tibet."

"No, the definition is completely different. It is a real god residing in the little girl's body. She is Kumari."

"Kumari...Kumari..." Agudemba didn't know, who was Kumari?

Old Lavani said:

The history of Kumari is actually quite long. In Nepal, it even goes back 2,300 years. At that time, it was a relatively simple worship of the "perfect virgin" who had not yet had her menstruation. Local people believed they had special powers, but they were not as highly respected as they are now. By the 13th century, the selection system, decoration and worship of Kumari began. However, the modern worship of Kumari began around the 17th century.

Old Lavani continued:

The legend about Kumari today is as follows: The last king of the Mala Dynasty in Nepal and his friend the goddess Taleju often hide in the room at night and play a dice game together. The more they played, the more addicted they became. The goddess came to play every day and warned the king not to let anyone know. She didn't want anyone to see her.

But the queen noticed something strange: "The king disappears without a trace every night. Who is he going to have a tryst with?" That night, the queen secretly followed the king to see who he was meeting - and ended up with Ta The thunder bead goddesses collided with each other!

The goddess was very angry about this and told the king: "If you still want to see me again and want me to protect your country, come and find me! I will transform into a Sakya girl."

In order to bring back the goddess Taleju, the king left the palace and embarked on a journey to find the girl who was transformed into a goddess, which is what we call Kumari today.

The old man Lavani added that over hundreds of years, Nepal has developed a "selection system" to identify Kumaris one term after another. To become a Kumari is very strict, and there are many restrictions on innate conditions. For example, you must meet the following conditions:

 

A girl from the Sakya goldsmith caste

Must be a young girl before menarche

Good health, no injuries, no bleeding, no illness

There should be no spots or birthmarks on the body

Neat teeth with no missing teeth

The horoscope should match the king

Neck as smooth as a shell

Body shaped like a banyan tree

Eyelashes as long as cows

Thighs like a deer

Breasts like lions

The voice is soft but as loud as a duck

 

A total of 32 "perfect characteristics" must be met to become a Kumari candidate.

Then, on the dark night of the Desai Festival every year, ritualists will sacrifice 108 buffaloes and goats to God Kali, and decorate the darkroom in the temple with 108 animal heads and candles, while masked men perform ritual dances.

The young Kumari candidate will be brought here to face the horror scenes throughout the night: if she remains calm and does not show any fear, it means that the goddess Taleju is in her body; otherwise, it will The next candidate is taken through the same ritual until the "Chosen Girl" is found.

Finally, the girl who passes the terrifying test must pick out the clothes of the former Kumari from a pile of clothes. This is considered to be truly certified.

After becoming a Kumari, a girl must leave home and live in a Kumari home, usually a Taleju temple, to accept worship from believers. They are not allowed to go to school, are not allowed to go out at will, and are not allowed to touch the ground with their feet. It is not until the menarche comes and the goddess Talezhu leaves her body that she can "resign" and go home. By then, since the goddess has found a new girl, the selection system will be restarted to find a new Kumari.

In Nepal today, there is more than one goddess. There is a Kumari of her own in Kathmandu and some big cities. However, it is said that it is generally believed that the Kumari in the ancient capital of Bataan is relatively representative.

Old Lavani showed Agudumba a photo of the front of the ancient Bataan temple. There was a photo of the living goddess posted on the temple door in the square of the temple, with "Lalitpur Living Goddess" written in English.

Agudengba said: Well, why does it feel a bit touristy?

Old Lavani took Agudengba to the Bataan Temple in the ancient capital. When he stepped into the temple, Agudengba saw three foreign tourists standing in the inner square with a red dot common in Hinduism on their foreheads. The tour guide was foaming at the mouth. Introducing Kumari culture across the sky. Old man Lavani said: In fact, tourists do not need to make arrangements with a travel agency to visit Kumari, they can just go there on their own.

Agudemba stood downstairs in Kumari's room. Next to the door was a sign saying "Please ring the bell before going upstairs."

At this time, someone poked his head out of the second-floor window. A woman who appeared to be around 30 years old stared at Agudenba, and then gave him a kind smile.

"Hello, I'm here to visit Kumari. Are you..."

"I am Kumari's mother."

"Can I go up and see Kumari?"

"Okay, take off your shoes and go upstairs first."

Agudemba and Lavani took off their shoes, walked upstairs on the creaking wooden stairs, and stood in front of the closed wooden door to wait. Then the wooden door opens, and you first enter a small space filled with Kumari photos. If you take a closer look, you will see that they are all photos taken during the festival.

Kumari's mother stood in front of Agudumba and Lavani: "Come, wash your hands first."

Then, Agudumba and the old man Lavani passed through a small space full of photos and came to a room about 5 square meters in size. I saw a little girl in the depths, sitting on a gold and silver throne. There was a golden plate under her feet. There was a small piece of wood between her feet and the plate. Various metal utensils were scattered around her. . She is the living goddess──Kumali.

The Kumari in front of me looks only 4-5 years old. She pursed her lips tightly and looked at Agudumba and Lavani.

Kumari's mother spoke to Agudumba: "Kneel on the mat in front of Kumari! Accept the blessings given to you by the goddess."

Agudemba knelt and approached the throne, reaching the mat only 10 centimeters away from Kumari. He looked at the girl with childish eyes and looked back at him.

Her face was expressionless. That's the best case scenario - if her face showed any emotion, it wouldn't be a good sign.

At this time, Kumari stretched out her thumb and dipped it in the vermilion mud on the side, and put a red dot on Agudengba's forehead. This is called an auspicious mole, which is the blessing given to Agudengba by the living goddess.

At this time, Agudenba's head was in chaos, with many thoughts mixed together as if in knots, and he didn't know what to do next. Kumari's mother broke the silence and said to Agudemba, "You can put some donations on the plate next to you."

Agudenbadu almost forgot about this. Old Lavani once told him: The tradition of visiting Kumari is to give some donation, usually around 20-50 rupees.

Is it a bit touristy to meet a living goddess in Nepal? Does the girl in front of me really understand her identity?

The silence in the space brought a little pressure to Agudengba. Agudemba stepped back silently, nodded to Kumari and her mother, said, "Thank you," and left the room.

Agudemba asked a brief question to the old man Lavani: "How long has this girl been the living goddess of Kumari?"

Old Lavani said: "Well, let me think about it...it's been 11 months."

After the wooden door was closed, Agudemba and Lavani left the Kumari House.

In the Bataan Temple Square in the ancient capital, someone sang a prayer song "Living Goddess Kumari":

 

Our Living Goddess Kumari

You are the protector of Nepalese people

Your existence is the will of Buddha

You can make us safe and happy

 

Two holy rivers in Kathmandu

One is the Bagmati River

The other is the Westnuti River

Your ancestors lived on the shore

 

You are a descendant of the Shakya family

A clean and unblemished birth

You possess thirty-two virtues

You have no flaws or shortcomings

 

You have never been sick or bled

There are no scars on the body

The neck shines like a shell

The body is as tall and straight as a bodhi tree

 

Your legs are as straight as a deer

The hands and feet are particularly slender and beautiful

Eyes and hair are all shiny black

You don't have any missing teeth either.

 

Your zodiac sign matches the king

You are calm and fearless, not afraid of the dark

You successfully passed the final competition

You were still a young virgin at that time

 

Selected by the royal priests

You have superhuman abilities and wisdom

You become the Kumari of the temple

Believers worship her as a living goddess

 

You leave this worldly life

Sitting on the golden throne

Wearing unique red clothing

Wearing silver jewelry for tourists to admire

 

You live in a temple all day long

Until puberty arrives and leaves office

Kumari comes from a commoner family

After retirement, he returned to the private sector

 

Our Living Goddess Kumari

You are the protector of Nepalese people

Your words and deeds are signs of good and bad luck

you will bring us good luck

活女神库玛丽(雪域寓言)

 


活女神库玛丽

 

腊伐尼老人问阿古登巴

“你知道尼泊尔有活女神吗?”

“活女神?你是说修道有成的活神仙吗?我只听说西藏有活佛。”

“不,定义上完全不一样,是真的神祇寄宿在小女孩体内,她是库玛丽。”

“库玛丽……库玛丽…… 阿古登巴不知道,库玛丽究竟是谁?

腊伐尼老人说:

库玛丽的历史,其实相当悠久。在尼泊尔,甚至可以追溯到 2,300 年之前。当时是较单纯的、对于尚未初经来潮的“完美处女”崇拜。当地人们相信她们有着特别的力量,但不如现在如此崇尚。到了 13 世纪,则开始有了库玛丽的遴选制度、装饰和祭拜。然而,现代推崇的库玛丽崇拜,则大约是从 17 世纪开始。

腊伐尼老人继续说道:

关于今日库玛丽的传说故事,是这样的:尼泊尔马拉王朝的末代国王和他的朋友塔雷珠女神,常常晚上躲在房间里头,一起玩一种骰子游戏。两人愈玩愈上瘾,女神到后来每天都跑来玩,并且告诫国王,不准让任何人知道,她不想让闲杂人等看到她。

但皇后察觉哪里怪怪的:“国王每晚消失得无影无踪,到底是跑去和谁幽会?”这晚,皇后暗自跟踪了国王,想看看国王究竟和谁见面——结果和塔雷珠女神彼此撞个正着!

女神为此非常生气,并且告诉国王:“若你还想要再见到我,还想要我守护你的国家,就来寻找我吧!我会化身成一位释迦族的女孩。”

国王为了让塔雷珠女神回归,就这样离开了王宫扣踏上旅程,寻找女神化生成的女孩,也就是今日我们所说的——库玛丽。

腊伐尼老人又说道,数百年下来,尼泊尔当地发展出一套“遴选制度”,以找出一任又一任的库玛丽。要成为库玛丽是非常严格的,先天条件上就有诸多限制,比如,要具备举以下几个条件:

 

出身释迦族金匠种姓的女孩

必须是月经初潮来潮前的幼女

健康状况良好,没受过伤,没流过血、没生过病

身上不能有斑点或胎记

牙齿整齐无缺牙

天宫图要和国王能够匹配

颈部如贝壳般光滑

身形如榕树

眼睫毛和牛一样长

大腿如鹿

乳房如狮

声音轻柔但响亮如鸭

……

 

总共要符合 32 项“完美的特征”,才能成为库玛丽候选人。

接着,每年德赛节的黑暗之夜仪式人员会献祭 108 头水牛和山羊给迦梨神,并用 108 颗动物头和蜡烛装饰神殿内的暗房,由戴面具的男人在旁跳着仪式舞蹈。

年幼的库玛丽候选人将会被带到此处,面对整晚的恐怖场景:若是她不动声色,始终没有面露任何畏惧,代表塔雷珠女神在她身体里面;反之,则会带下一位候选人体验相同的仪式,直到找到那位“被选中的女孩”为止。

最后,通过恐怖考验的女孩,还必须从一堆衣服中,挑出前库玛丽的衣服,这才算是真正通过认证。

成为库玛丽后,女孩则必须离开家里,住在库玛丽之家,通常也为塔雷珠神殿,接受众信徒的朝拜。平时不能去学校、不得随意外出、双脚也不能碰地。直到初潮来临,塔雷珠女神离开其身,才可“卸任”回家。届时,由于女神已经找到了新的女孩,遴选制度会重新展开,以找出新的库玛丽。

今日的尼泊尔,女神不只一个,在加德满都和部分大城市中,都有自己的库玛丽。不过据称一般认为,在古都巴丹的库玛丽,相对具有代表性。

腊伐尼老人给阿古登巴看了一张古都巴丹神殿正面的照片,殿中广场的神殿大门上贴着活女神的照片,并用英文写着“Lalitpur Living Goddess”。

阿古登巴说:怎么有点观光化的味道?

腊伐尼老人带着阿古登巴去了古都巴丹神殿,踏进神殿内,阿古登巴就看见三位外国旅客站在内广场,额头上都有颗印度教常见的红点,导游正口沫横飞地介绍库玛丽文化。腊伐尼老人说:其实游客拜访库玛丽无需经由旅行社安排,自行前往即可。

阿古登巴站在库玛丽的房间楼下,门旁写着“上楼前请先按电铃”。

这时,有人从二楼窗户探出头来,一位看似 30 岁上下的女性盯着阿古登巴,接着给予了善意的微笑。

“您好, 我是来拜访库玛丽的,您是……

“我是库玛莉的妈妈。”

“我可以上去见库玛丽吗?”

“可以,你先脱掉鞋子上楼吧。”

阿古登巴与腊伐尼老人脱掉鞋子,踩着吱吱作响的木梯上楼,站在紧闭的木门前等待。接着木门开启,先是进入一个贴满库玛丽照片的小空间,仔细一瞄,都是祭典时拍摄的照片。

库玛丽的妈妈站在阿古登巴与腊伐尼老人面前:“来,先洗个手。”

接着,阿古登巴与腊伐尼老人穿越了满是照片的小空间,来到一间约 5 坪大小的房间。只见深处有位小女孩,坐在金银相间的宝座上,她脚下有着金色的盘子,双足与盘子之间还隔了一小块木头,身旁散落着各式各样的金属器具。她就是活女神──库玛丽。

眼前的库玛莉,看上去不过 45 岁而已。她紧闭双唇看着阿古登巴与腊伐尼老人

库玛丽的妈妈开口对阿古登巴说:“你跪在库玛丽前方的垫子吧!接受女神给予你的祝福。”

阿古登巴跪着接近宝座,到达距离库玛丽不过 10 几公分的垫子上,看着眼神还带着稚气的女孩、回望着他。

她面无表情。这是最好的状况——若是她脸上显示出任何情绪,不会是任何好的预兆。

这时,库玛丽伸出大拇指沾了一旁的朱泥,在阿古登巴的额头上点了颗红点,这称为吉祥痣,这是活女神给予阿古登巴的祝福。

这时阿古登巴的脑袋一片混乱,许多思绪混杂在一起彷佛打了结,更不知道下一步要做什么。库玛莉的妈妈打破了沉默,对阿古登巴说:“你可以放一些捐献在旁边的盘子中。”

阿古登巴都差点忘了这件事,腊伐尼老人曾对他说过:拜访库玛丽的传统,是要给些捐献金,通常在 20 50 卢比左右。

在尼泊尔拜见活女神,是不是有点观光化了?眼前的女孩,真正理解了自己的身份吗?

空间中的一片寂静,带给阿古登巴些许压力。阿古登巴默默地向后退,向库玛丽与她妈妈点了个头致意,说:“谢谢。”离开了房间。

阿古登巴腊伐尼老人抛出了简短的问句:“这个女孩子,成为库玛莉活女神多久了?”

腊伐尼老人说:“嗯,我想想……11 个月了吧。

木门阖上后,阿古登巴腊伐尼老人离开了库玛丽之家。

古都巴丹神殿广场上,有人唱起了一首祈福歌《活女神库玛丽》:

 

我们的库玛里活女神

你是尼泊尔人保护神

你的存在是佛陀旨意

你能让我们平安幸福

 

加德满都有两条圣河

有一条是巴格玛蒂河

另一条是威斯奴蒂河

你的祖辈生息在岸边

 

你是释迦家族的后代

出身清白而没有污点

你具备三十二种美德

你没有任何瑕疵缺点

 

你没有生过病流过血

身上也没有任何伤疤

脖子像贝壳一样发亮

身体像菩提树般挺拔

 

你的腿像鹿儿般笔直

手和脚特别修长漂亮

眼睛头发都黑得发亮

你也不缺损任何牙齿

 

你的星座和国王一致

你冷静无畏不惧黑暗

你顺利通过最后角逐

你那时还是幼童处女

 

经过皇家祭司的斟选

你有超人能力和智慧

你成了庙宇的库玛里

信众视为活女神朝拜

 

你就此离开世俗生活

坐上了金黄色的宝座

身着特有的红色服装

头戴银饰供游客瞻仰

 

你终日生活在庙宇里

直到青春期到来离任

库玛里来自平民家庭

退休之后又回归民间

 

我们的库玛里活女神

你是尼泊尔人保护神

你的言行是吉凶标志

你会给我们带来好运

2023年12月1日星期五

Entering the City of Nepali Art

 


Entering the City of Nepali Art

 

Old Lavani told Agudumba about Nepal’s metal manufacturing process and the magical Gurkha knife, but what made him most proud was Nepal’s religious history and urban culture.

Mr. Lavani believes that Nepal has many art cities and world cultural heritages.

Old Lavani said:

Enter Nepal, a high mountain country in southern Asia. Attractions there include: Sagarmatha National Park, Lukla, Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Everest Base Camp, Kathmandu, Durbar Square, Boudhanath Stupa, Bhaktapur, Nagarkot, Chitwan Country Park, Lumbini, Pashupatinath Temple.

Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur can make people feel the mysterious atmosphere of Nepal's medieval ancient cities.

India is the birthplace of Buddhism, and Buddhist culture is an important cultural heritage on the Silk Road. If you follow the footsteps of Buddha Sakyamuni and Master Xuanzang and visit important Buddhist holy places on the South Silk Road, you must first go to Lumbini, Nepal. It is the birthplace of Buddha Sakyamuni. You can experience the profound realm of Buddhist culture in the Buddha's Holy Land.

Nepal has simple folk customs and everyone lives happily. Lumbini is the birthplace of Buddhism, which is even more awe-inspiring. Materially, Nepalese are not rich, but they are self-disciplined and satisfied in their hearts. So they are not poor in spirit. There are many poor countries in Asia, and the small country in the northeastern corner is one of the poorest. But they have excellent geography and climate, and many religions are their wealth. They are very wise and have a lot of non-material spiritual wealth. They should be very grateful for the gifts of nature.

Nepal should be one of the few countries in the world where harmony and chaos coexist. The capital, Kathmandu, has towering temples, various ethnic groups, and very lively markets. Especially among the bustling crowds, you can also see motorcycles passing through, horns blaring one after another, and there are no traffic lights here. However, what kind of accidents will not happen to them? What kind of secret can make them orderly in chaos?

Old Lavani said to Agudumba: When you come to Nepal, you should find the charm of Nepal.

Patan in Nepal is said to come from the Gosa Inkunda Glacier Lake in the distance. It is regarded as holy water by Nepalese people. Citizens often come to bathe in order to seek sanctity.

King Jayasthiti ordered the erection of many statues of Narayan, Ganesha and other gods beside the water tank next to the temple and in the courtyard of the temple. The Rudra Vana Buddhist Temple in the center of the city, its Buddha statues and the surrounding Bodhisattva statues are all copper art treasures. There are also many bronze statues, stone statues and Buddhist altars covered with patterns. People entering the temple, such as Enter the art library.

In the square square near the market in the city, there is the Machindranath Temple, or the Red Guanyin Temple. It was built in 1408 and is a tower-style building. The male God Machindranath enshrined is the goddess of Guanyin. One of the incarnations. This deity first appeared in female form in China and is believed by both Buddhists and Hindus. The clay statue is extremely exquisite, but it was only worshiped in this temple for 6 months. There are also many exquisite bronze Bodhisattva statues in the temple.

On the bank of the Bagmati River in South Patan City, there is the Jagat Narayana Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple is built of red bricks and has a color like fire. In the temple, there are Hanuman, Ganesha, Ganesha, and There are many stone sculptures such as the winged bird, which are exquisite in shape, especially the metal statue of the golden-winged bird perched high on the stone pillar, which attracts people's admiration. In addition, the Krishna Temple, Dajue Temple and Hiranyawana Temple in the city are all famous ancient temples.

Jixiang Street in the city center is the ruins of the Managrih Palace of the Lichavi Dynasty.

Old Lavani told Agudumba: Patan is also a center for woodcarving and metal carving handicrafts, and produces copperware, carpets, etc.

Old Lavani accompanied Agudumba to the ancient city of Patan and entered the ancient city of Patan along the main road. The ancient city of Patan completely overlaps with the living area of the local residents. After experiencing changes over time, even today, Durbar Square is still the local It is the main place for residents’ gatherings and festival parades. Locals wearing traditional ethnic costumes and students wearing Western school uniforms shuttle through this ancient city together, forming a sharp contrast that seems to connect the country’s past and future.

Patan is very big, and if there is no clear sightseeing route, it can be enough to visit for several days.

Old Lavani said to Agudengba: Although Nepal today is traditional and poor, it is still the poorest country in Asia. With the Himalayas on its back, there are more gods than people and more temples than houses. But I still hope that when you come to Nepal again in a few decades, you can still see so many and complete ancient ruins.

The streets of the Art City of Patan are crowded and noisy, mostly populated by locals.

Old Lavani said to Agudengba: You happened to catch up with one of their festivals. A "goddess" walked out of the temple. The believers on both sides threw corns at him, praying for good weather and a good harvest in the new year.

At this time, the believers sang Nepal’s square dance song “Nepal Mineral Water”:

 

From the top of the mountain to the valley

Nepal mineral water

Clear and visible everywhere

Convergence and vitality

ancient sacred river

Flow into the land of Cupid.

 

Spring water turns into pearls

Clean, clear and translucent

Overflowing with joy and joy

Decorate your home inside and outside

bring freedom and happiness

The joyful dawn has arrived.

 

The water drops are crystal clear and active

Spread between heaven and earth

With the power of sunlight

Into the pool of love

Spiritual faith never ceases

Pray for blessings from the goddess.

走进尼泊尔艺术之城(雪域寓言)

 


走进尼泊尔艺术之城

 

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴讲述了尼泊尔的金属制造工艺神奇的廓尔喀刀,但令他最为自豪的还是尼泊尔宗教历史和城市文化。

腊伐尼老人认为尼泊尔有众多的艺术之城和世界文化遗产。

腊伐尼老人说

走进尼泊尔,那是亚洲南部的高山国家。那里的景点有:萨加玛塔国家公园、卢卡拉、丹增-希拉里机场、珠穆朗玛峰大本营、加德满都、杜巴广场、博达哈大佛塔、巴德岗、纳加阔特、奇特旺国家公园、蓝毗尼、帕斯帕提那神庙。

加德满都、帕坦、巴克塔布,更能让人感受尼泊尔中世纪古城的神秘氛围。

印度是佛教的发祥地,佛教文化更是丝路上重要的文化遗产,如果跟随佛陀释迦摩尼与玄奘大师的足迹,探访南丝路上重要的佛教圣地,那么就必需先到尼泊尔蓝毗尼,那是佛陀释迦摩尼的出生地,可以在佛陀圣地感受佛教文化的高深境界。

尼泊尔有淳朴的民风,每个人都在愉悦地生活。蓝毗尼是佛教的发源地,更令人敬畏。物质上,尼泊尔人并不富裕,但他们的内心却是自律和满足。所以他们的精神并不贫穷。亚洲穷国很多,最穷的东北角上那个小国也是其一。但他们拥有极好的地理和气候,诸多宗教就是他们的财富,他们很有智慧,拥有很多非物质的精神财富, 应该很感恩大自然的赐予。

尼泊尔,这里应该是世界上少数和谐与混乱并存的国家,首都加德满都有高耸的寺庙,有各式各样的人种,还有非常热闹的市集。尤其在熙来攘往的人群当中,还可以看到有摩托车穿梭在里头,喇叭声此起彼落的,这里也看不到什么红绿灯。但是呢,他们也不会发生什么样的事故,到底是什么样的秘密,可以让他们乱中有序呢?

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴说:你来到了尼泊尔,你应该会发现尼泊尔的魅力。

尼泊尔的帕坦,传说来自远处的戈萨因孔达冰湖,被尼泊尔人视为圣水,市民常来沐浴,以求圣洁。

贾亚斯提提国王下令在寺旁水槽边和寺内庭院中,建立那罗衍、象头神等神像多尊。城中心的鲁德拉.瓦纳佛寺,其佛像及四周的菩萨像均为铜制艺术珍品,寺中还有多尊铜像、石像和布满图饰的佛坛等,人入庙中,如入艺术库藏。

城中市场附近的方形广场上,有玛琴德拉纳特庙,或称红观音庙,建于1408年,为塔式建筑,所祀奉的男身玛琴德拉纳特神,为观世音的化身之一。此神祇在中国始现女身,为佛教徒和印度教徒共同信奉。其泥塑像至为精美,但只在此庙祀奉6个月。庙中尚有精美的铜铸菩萨像多尊。

帕坦市南巴格马提河滨有祀奉毗湿奴神的贾格特.那罗衍庙,庙用红砖砌造,颜色如火,庙中有哈努曼、象头神、金翅鸟等多尊石雕,形制精美,尤以高踞于石柱上的金翅鸟金属雕像,引人赞叹。此外,城中的黑天神庙、大觉寺和希拉尼亚.瓦纳寺,都是远近驰名的古刹。

市中心的吉祥街,是李查维王朝马纳格里赫宫的遗址。

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴说:帕坦还是木刻和金属雕刻手工艺制作中心,并出产铜器和地毯等。

腊伐尼老人陪同阿古登巴抵达帕坦古城,沿着主路进入帕坦古城,帕坦古城和当地居民的生活区域完全重合,经历的历时的变迁,即使在今天,杜巴广场依然是本地居民集会和节日游行的主要场所,穿着本民族传统服饰的本地人和穿着西式校服的学生共同穿梭在这座古老的城市,形成一种鲜明的对比,就好像连接了这个国家的过去和未来。

帕坦很大,如果没有明确的观光线路,足够逛好几天。

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴说:今天的尼泊尔虽然传统而贫穷,尼泊尔还是亚洲最穷国,背靠喜马拉雅山,这里的神比人多、庙比房多。但我仍然希望几十年后,你再次来到尼泊尔的时候,能依然看到如此众多而完整的古迹。

帕坦艺术之城的街道拥挤而嘈杂,大部分都是当地人。

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴说:你恰好赶上了他们的一个节日,一个“神婆”从神庙中走出,两边的信众向他投以粟米,祈求新的一年风调雨顺,五谷丰登。

这时信众们唱起了尼泊尔的广场舞神曲尼泊尔矿泉水》:

 

从山顶到山谷

尼泊尔矿泉水

处处清澈可见

汇流涌动活力

远古神圣河水

流入爱神之地。

 

泉水化作明珠

洁净清晰透亮

洋溢欢乐愉悦

点缀家园内外

带来自由快乐

喜庆黎明来临。

 

水珠晶莹活跃

洒落天地之间

带着阳光之力

汇入爱之池泉

心灵信仰不息

祈愿神婆赐福。

Entering the cultural holy city of India

 


Entering the cultural holy city of India

 

Old Lavani told Agudumba about the history and culture of Nepal, but the history and culture of Nepal cannot be separated from India.

Mr. Lavani believes that only by understanding the history and culture of India can we better understand Nepal.

Old Lavani said:

Entering India, there are Nalanda-Lingjiu Mountain, Buddhist University, Bodh Kaju, Galgada-Durga Festival. There are 5.8 billion people in the world, of which 500 million are Buddhists. India is the birthplace of Buddhism, and Buddhist culture is an important cultural heritage on the Silk Road. Following the footsteps of Buddha Sakyamuni and Master Xuanzang, visiting important Buddhist holy sites on the South Silk Road, you can experience the profound realm of Buddhist culture. In a country as culturally rich and geographically diverse as India, it’s perhaps not surprising that you’ll find the sixth-largest number of UNESCO sites in the world. But India has much more to offer in terms of cultural and natural treasures. There’s everything from ancient caves carved into steep gorges to surreal landscapes and ruins of the Vijayanagar dynasty. India is home to at least seven of the most fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Sites, embodying much of what is incredible about India.

Delhi, National Capital Territory of India. The Indian capital is rich in historical monuments, but three of the must-see heritage treasures are the Red Fort, Humayun’s Tomb and Qutub Minar.

Wander the grounds of the Red Fort and admire the magnificent red sandstone walls commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639. Then visit the magnificent mausoleum, Humayun's Tomb. Its massive double domes, clad in marble and red sandstone, tower majestically over the symmetrical gardens. Finally, the beautiful 13th-century Qutb Minaret - it was built for Muslim prayers and is the tallest brick minaret in the world.

Located northeast of the city of Aurangabad in the mountainous region of Maharashtra, the Ajanta Caves are a series of spectacular Buddhist temples carved into the sides of a steep granite gorge. Many of these caves date back to the 5th century AD and are highly regarded for their sculptures, murals and frescoes depicting Buddhist teachings. The stories are depicted in wonderful detail and are considered to be among the finest surviving examples of ancient Indian art. At the same time, you'll also discover an even more ancient splendor, the Ellora Caves, one of the largest rock-cut Hindu temple complexes in the world. The artwork in these caves dates back to between 600 and 1000 AD and is mainly dedicated to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism, showing the unique spirit of tolerance of ancient India.

Jaipur, Rajasthan The walled city of Jaipur is the capital and gateway to the state of Rajasthan, but it's a wonder in its own right. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known as the Pink City of India because of the magical pink hue of its sandstone buildings. Once a historic center for Indian trade, today you can expect a variety of aromatic street food, markets selling fine cloths and handicrafts, and a plethora of forts and palaces.

In the northern Indian state of Punjab, the city of Amritsar lays claim to the Golden Temple, Sikhism's holiest site. Although still technically on UNESCO's tentative heritage list, there is a poetic beauty to this place that is compelling. The central building of the complex appears to be floating on an artificial lake and is covered with 750 kilograms of gold, thanks to a magnificent maharaja in the early 19th century. Take off your shoes at the entrance and stroll along the marble promenade while people pray by the water. You can also join the Pilgrims and enter the world's largest free kitchen. It aims to uphold the principle of equality by providing food to all castes, religions or genders, providing free food to up to 300,000 people every day. Participate in the Sikh Gurpurab festival in November and visit temples decorated with lights. Devotees will also light candles to mark this special occasion: the birthday of Guru Nanak, the founder and first guru of Sikhism.

In the heart of the southern Indian state of Karnataka, the landscape surrounding the ancient village of Hampi is so surreal it feels like another planet. The plains of banana trees and lime-green rice fields contrast sharply with the ruddy, ocher hues of the boulders scattered across the rolling landscape. Precariously clustered like crumbling sculptures, these naturally eroded stones are stacked on top of the mountain, providing a vantage point for stunning sunsets. But most importantly, Hampi is the seat of the 14th-century Vijayanagara Kingdom and is home to more than 1,600 temples, forts and other monuments listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and one of India's holiest places, located on the holy Ganges River in northern India. This historical and spiritual importance gives Varanasi a distinctly powerful quality. As the daily public cremations begin, you'll see garlands floating on the water and smoke rising from the riverside steps of the ghats. Varanasi is the spiritual home of India's saints who renounced all worldly possessions. As a result, the ghats are filled with devout Hindus performing ritual baths in holy water and funeral pyres left behind by the sacred eternal fire that cremated the body. Particularly unforgettable scenes all take place on the full moon night, 15 days after Diwali, that is, between the end of October and November. On the steps leading to the water, more than a million earthen lamps can be seen lit.

In Orissa, facing the coast of the Bay of Bengal, you'll find India's ethereal 13th-century Konark Sun Temple. This famous UNESCO site is dedicated to the Hindu sun god Surya and is built in the shape of his giant chariot. Admire the twelve pairs of stone wheels pulled by seven stone horses, which are ornately carved and display the time of day according to the rays of the sun. If you are lucky enough to visit in December, you will witness the Konark Dance Festival, a colorful showcase of India's cultural riches.

Old Lavani said to Agudengba:

Whether you're browsing or strolling through these awe-inspiring locations, complete your sensory experience with this awesome Indian sanctuary. Indian literature, poetry, movies, songs and dances are also world-famous art and culture. India is a rather magical country. Whether it is TV, movies or songs, they all have their own unique charm. Even if someone doesn't know which country the work is from, they will know it is from India after just listening to it. Indian songs have a unique exotic flavor and a catchy feeling.

The daughter of old man Lavani sang for Agudumba a song called "The Song of Raz" from the old Indian movie "The Wanderer":

 

I am a wanderer,

Destiny leads me forward.

I am a wanderer,

I won't hide it from you,

I'm a waif.

The streets are my home,

The dust and heat accompany me.

I can live with this fate,

No one loves me and no one loves me,

There is no house for me to live in,

There is no place for me in the world.

 

I am a wanderer,

I won't hide it from you,

who am I,

I'm a waif.

I can't change my life,

No matter if everything collapses and collapses,

I was still singing happily.

I am broad-minded and happy,

Don’t worry about the affairs of the world.

 

Oh, the human world,

Where can I find my love?

I am a wanderer,

Destiny leads me forward.

走进印度文化圣城(雪域寓言)

 


走进印度文化圣城

 

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴讲述了尼泊尔的历史文化,但尼泊尔的历史和文化,无法与印度割离。

腊伐尼老人认为只有了解印度的历史文化,才能更好地读懂尼泊尔。

腊伐尼老人说

走进印度,那里有那兰陀-灵鹫山、佛教大学、菩提迦揶、加尔加达-杜尔加节庆。全世界有58亿的人口,佛教徒占了5亿,印度是佛教的发祥地,佛教文化更是丝路上重要的文化遗产。跟随佛陀释迦摩尼与玄奘大师的足迹,探访南丝路上重要的佛教圣地,可以感受佛教文化的高深境界。在印度这样一个文化丰富、地域多元化的国家,你会发现世界第六大联合国教科文组织遗址数量也许不足为奇。但是在文化和自然宝藏方面,印度还拥有更多。从雕刻在陡峭峡谷中的古老洞穴到毗奢耶那伽罗王朝的超现实景观和遗迹,应有尽有。印度至少有七个最迷人的联合国教科文组织世界遗产,体现了印度的许多不可思议之处。

德里,印度国家首都辖区。印度首都拥有丰富的历史遗迹,但其中必看的三个遗产宝藏是红堡、胡马雍陵和顾特卜塔。

漫步在红堡的场地上,欣赏由莫卧儿皇帝沙贾汗于1639年委托建造的宏伟红砂岩墙。然后参观宏伟的陵墓,胡马雍陵。它巨大的双穹顶覆盖着大理石和红砂岩,雄伟地耸立在对称的花园中。最后,美丽的13世纪顾特布尖塔——它是为穆斯林祈祷而建造的,是世界上最高的砖砌尖塔。

阿旃陀石窟位于马哈拉施特拉邦山区的奥兰加巴德市东北部,是雕刻在陡峭花岗岩峡谷两侧的一系列壮观的佛教寺庙。许多这些洞穴的历史可以追溯到公元5世纪,并因其描绘佛教教义的雕塑、壁画和壁画而备受推崇。这些故事以精彩的细节进行了描绘,被认为是古代印度艺术中现存最好的例子之一。同时,你还会发现更古老的辉煌建筑,即埃洛拉洞穴,这是世界上最大的岩石切割的印度教寺庙群之一。这些洞穴的艺术品可追溯到公元600年至1000年之间,主要供奉佛教、印度教和耆那教,展现了古印度特有的宽容精神。

拉贾斯坦邦的斋浦尔,这座城墙环绕的城市斋浦尔是拉贾斯坦邦的首府和门户,但其本身就是一个奇迹。它是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产,因其砂岩建筑神奇的粉红色色调而被称为印度的粉红之城。曾经是印度贸易的历史中心,如今你可以期待各种各样的芳香街头小吃、出售精美布料和手工艺品的市场以及大量的堡垒和宫殿。

在印度北部的旁遮普邦,阿姆利则市宣称拥有金庙——锡克教最神圣的地方。虽然理论上仍处于联合国教科文组织暂定的遗产名单上,但这个地方有一种引人入胜的诗意之美。建筑群的中央建筑仿佛漂浮在人工湖上,上面覆盖着750公斤的黄金,这要归功于19世纪初一位华丽的大君。在入口处脱鞋,沿着大理石长廊漫步,人们则在水边祈祷。你也可以和朝圣者一起进入世界上最大的免费厨房。它旨在通过为所有种姓、宗教或性别提供食物来维护平等原则,每天可为多达30万人提供免费食物。在11月份参与锡克教的古尔普拉布节,参观装饰着灯光的寺庙。奉献者还将点燃蜡烛来纪念这个特殊的日子:锡克教创始人和第一位大师古鲁那纳克的生日。

在印度南部卡纳塔克邦的中心地带,古村亨比周围的景观是如此超现实,感觉就像是另一个星球。香蕉树和石灰绿色稻田平原与散落在起伏景观中巨石的红润、赭石色泽形成了鲜明对比。这些自然侵蚀的石头像摇摇欲坠的雕塑一样岌岌可危地成群结队,堆积在山顶上,是欣赏迷人日落的有利位置。但最重要的是,亨比是14世纪维贾亚纳加拉王国的所在地,拥有1600多座寺庙、堡垒和其他被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的古迹。

瓦拉纳西是世界上最古老的持续有人居住的城市之一,也是印度最神圣的地方之一,位于印度北部的神圣恒河上。这种历史和精神上的重要性赋予了瓦拉纳西明显的强大品质。随着每日公共火葬的开始,你会看到花环漂浮在水面上,烟雾从高止山脉的河滨台阶上升起。瓦拉纳西是印度放弃所有世俗财产的圣人的精神家园。因此,高止山脉到处是在圣水中进行沐浴仪式的虔诚印度教徒和火化尸体的神圣永恒之火留下的葬礼柴堆。特别令人难忘的场面,都发生在排灯节后15天的月圆之夜,也就是10月底至11月之间。在通往水面的台阶上,可以看到超过一百万盏的土灯点亮。

在面向孟加拉国湾海岸的奥里萨邦,你会发现印度空灵的13世纪科纳克太阳神庙。这座著名的联合国教科文组织遗址是献给印度教太阳神苏里亚的,以他巨大的战车形状建造。欣赏由七匹石马拉动的十二对石轮,这些石轮上刻有华丽的雕刻,并根据太阳的光线显示一天的时间。如果你有幸在12月到访,你将目睹科纳克舞蹈节,这是印度文化财富的一个多彩的展示。

腊伐尼老人对阿古登巴说:

无论你是在浏览还是漫步在这些令人敬畏的地点,都可以通过这个超赞的印度圣地来完善你的感官体验。印度的文学、诗歌、电影和歌舞,也是闻名世界的艺术文化。印度是一个比较神奇的国度,这里不管是电视、电影或者是歌曲,都带着自己独特的韵味,甚至于有人在不知道是哪个国家的作品时候,稍微听听就知道来自印度。印度的歌曲带着独特的异域风情,有一种抓耳的感觉。

腊伐尼老人的女儿为阿古登巴演唱了一首印度老电影《流浪者》里面的插曲《拉兹之歌》:

 

我是流浪儿,

命运领着我向前奔。

我是流浪儿,

我不瞒你,

我是流浪儿。

街头大道是我的家,

尘土暑气陪伴着我。

这样的命运我也能活,

没有人疼我也没有人爱,

也没有房屋给我住,

天底下没有我的安身处。

 

我是流浪儿,

我不瞒你,

我是什么人,

我是流浪儿。

我改变不了我的生活,

哪管一切倒塌崩毁,

我还是轻松愉快地唱着歌。

我胸怀宽广快乐,

天下的事也不发愁。

 

噢,人间呀,

我到哪里去寻找我的爱情?

我是流浪儿,

命运领着我向前奔。